Summary of Route
- Type: Out and back; classic overland
- Rating: 5/5
- Season: Summer
- Length: 3298 km
- Vehicle suitability: Stock 4x4 or crossover with AT tires
Route
When considering the greatest overlanding routes in the world, the Dempster often comes to mind and arguably beats out the Dalton solely on the fact that the Dempster allows access to the Artic Ocean. Unfortunately, when we completed this route in the summer of 2020, the Northwest Territories were closed to non-residents so this guide only covers the Dempster - Vancouver to Arctic Circle.
While daily driving distances will vary, this guide lists the campgrounds that we enjoyed and often repeated on our way down. There are literally 100’s of alternate options, although many we found were less enjoyable than those listed here.
After an early start from Vancouver, the first recommended campground can be found slightly north of Williams Lake at Blue Lake Rec site (52.34318, -122.23457). This is a 7.5 hour drive. Access should be suitable for all vehicles. As you approach the lake the best sites are located to your right (south east) and overlooking Blue Lake proper. Should these be occupied, there are alterative sites with less desirable views. All sites are free.
The following day you will continue north aiming to camp between Houston and Burns lake at Sunset Lake Rec site (54.49388, -126.35143). This is an approximately 5.5 hour drive, allowing time to visit Prince George (Nancy O’s for the best beef dip). This is another easily accessible campground with nice views across Sunset Lake. All sites are free.
While the first two days were relatively long driving, I recommend slowing down at this point as if you are from Vancouver, this is an area you will likely not be back to visit any time soon.
Some excellent campgrounds as you proceed north towards the Yukon border can be found at: Kitwancool Lake (55.35947, -128.10222), Eddontenajon Lake (57.76248, -129.97208), and at Boya Lake (59.36756, -129.10761).
Of these options only Boya Lake requires a fee for camping ($20) as it is a Provincial Park. Despite the cost, I highly comment Boya Lake for a campsite or for a visit due to the color and clarity of this lake. Further, in advance of Kitwancool Lake, consider checking out the historic village of Kitwancool (55.26789, -128.07044) as it is home to some of the oldest-known totem poles and is one of the largest collection of totem poles in British Columbia.
Shortly after Boya Lake you will come to the Yukon Border. While the route to the Arctic Circle requires you to turn left (west), I recommend a detour to Watson Lake to resupply and checkout the famous Sign Post Forest (60.0634, -128.7141).
Depending on the hour of day, the next recommended site and one of my favorites can be found west along highway 1 at 60.06532, -130.50491. Should this site be occupied, I’ve also camped slightly east at 60.09289, -130.37763 although this location is less scenic.
Continuing west, you will need to consider whether you take the most direct route along highway 1, or take a detour along Tagish Road to Carcross. While it will add to the trip duration, I highly recommend the detour and a visit to the Carcross desert and Emerald Lake.
As you exit Whitehorse, perhaps after having showered, similarly consider whether you have the time for another detour west along highway 1 towards Haines Junction and Kluane National Park. I highly recommend doing so. While that area deserves its own write up, I will suggest one of my all time favorite sites along the river at 60.68239, -137.35701, should you proceed that way.
Outside Whitehorse, albeit slightly out of the way an excellent campsite can be found at 60.78498, -135.43337. There are many options near this GPS location.
Continuing north the search for bug free, beautiful sites becomes difficult. Fortunately, you can break up your driving with a stop at the Braeburn Lodge for their famous super-sized cinnamon roles. After getting your sweet fix, I recommend you continue onto Tombstone Territorial Park if at all possible. Various online resources will provide some alternate options and I have camped at 64.02048, -138.58443 without trouble. That being said, Tombstone is an absolutely stunning park with a beautiful campground costing $18 per night (64.50294, -138.21976). The singular backcountry camping route maintained within Tombstone Territorial Park (Grizzly, Divide and Talus Lakes) is also one of the greatest backcountry hikes I have ever done and a highly recommended addition to this overland route.
If you have time on your return, a visit to Dawson City is highly recommended. This town has maintained much of its character, in addition to have modern amenities. Should you be seeking more adventure, consider trying the sour toe cocktail or booking a canoe trip on the Yukon River. We spent an idyllic 2 nights, 3 days, floating down the Yukon River towards Forty Mile. Depending on your vehicles range, you may need to stop at the gas station outside of Dawson as you proceed north as your next opportunity to fill up on fuel will be at Eagle Plans, at approximately mile marker 365.
Following Tombstone the landscape continually changes as you proceed north on the Dempster Highway. Go slow, watch for grizzlies and other wildlife, and give space to trucks as they will be traveling fast. An easily accessed free campsite with large views can be found at 65.76592, -137.89606. From this site it is a relatively short drive to the Arctic Circle at 66.56532, -136.30719.
Looking for other multi-day overland routes? Consider checking out our South Chilcotin or Peachland to Merritt overland routes!